Hey, Restaurateurs: Let's Have More Amuse-Bouches, Please

/ December 24, 2017

There's an old saying that notes: The only thing free is garbage. Well, that may not quite be true when it comes to the restaurant world, at least with regard to amuse-bouches....

When Fancy Restaurants Don't Make Their Own Pasta

/ November 26, 2017

It's a rarity, I know. But I just experienced something that's about as peculiar as an ice age in Hawaii, and I have to discuss it ... at least a little....

How Garnishes Became the Bane of My Existence

/ October 1, 2017

Eons ago, it was parsley, solo. Then came the '80s, and kiwi ruled the plate. After that, orange slices, flower-like radishes, diminutive cherry tomatoes....

How Ambrosia's Decline Became a Win-Win for America

/ September 15, 2017

Ever wonder why you don't see ambrosia on restaurant menus anymore?...

A Diatribe Against Using Unripe Tomatoes

/ September 5, 2017

I had something happen to me at a restaurant in Chicago recently that hasn't occurred to me in a long time....

We Need More American Indian Restaurants in NYC

/ August 11, 2017

Remember Silverbird? It was an interesting, short-lived American Indian restaurant on Manhattan's Upper West Side that offered bison burgers and other treats meant to showcase the varied cuisines of the first inhabitants of the United States. I remember going to Silverbird in the 1980s and enjoying it....

The Whole EVOO Thing

/ August 4, 2017

Maybe we should just change the names of all but the simplest of ingredients into acronyms to match what's often done with extra-virgin olive oil....

Rediscovering the Avocado: A Reality Check

/ June 16, 2017

Eons ago, my mother, who grew up in Los Angeles, introduced my father, a denizen of New York City, to the avocado. It was soft. It was luscious. It was fatty....

The Day I Almost Ate Seal and Whale

/ May 25, 2017

Long ago, my parents took my sister and me to Norway, Denmark and Sweden for summer vacation. While in Oslo, we went to a very fine restaurant that was decorated in the grand style....

Are Too Few Restaurants Offering Affordable Wines?

/ May 18, 2017

When I see that a $100 bottle on a restaurant's wine list is among the lower-priced options, I want to cry....

Would You Like Warm or Cold Bread to Start?

/ March 18, 2017

Getting served a basket of bread often signifies the beginning of a meal. They all do it—from the top fine dining restaurants to the casual eateries—and frequently, the first impression you get after stepping in the establishment is the bread basket. That's why this Conveyor of Carbs is pretty important....

Railing Against the Term 'Chicken Tenders'

/ March 16, 2017

Tender is the night. The American dollar is legal tender. One might tender a resignation....

Where Has All the Carob Gone?

/ February 26, 2017

As Pete Seeger might have sung, it's a long time passing....

Why I Just Can't Munch on Celery

/ February 19, 2017

To paraphrase E.E. Cummings, there are some foods I will not eat....

Pondering the Idea of the Raw-Meat Restaurant

/ January 26, 2017

In this brave new world that has such foodies in it, the notion that consuming raw meat, poultry, eggs or shellfish can be hazardous to one's health has permeated the restaurant landscape—so much so that eateries offering these delicacies are required to carry this reminder on their menus like a banner held aloft by a reluctant warrior in some ancient, fire-resistan...

The Terrible Problem of Faux Martinis

/ November 3, 2016

We’ve come to a point in time where just about any adult beverage, it seems, can be called a Martini. Chocolate Martinis, of course, are a standard now. So are those green apple things that look like pureed lime gelatin and taste like the liquid inside those wax candy sticks once sold at supermarket checkout lines in an effort to lure customers attracted to shiny, c...

Would You Like Flaccid, Oil-Soaked Fries with That?

/ November 3, 2016

There’s a horrible epidemic infecting America that few people are addressing … even though it pervades the nation’s fabric like stars spangling a banner. It’s a disease that has infiltrated the souls of U.S. citizens after being latent for many moons. It’s unstoppable, affecting both rich and poor, sad and happy, Republican and Democrat, Beatles fan and Roll...

Feelin’ Bluevy

/ November 3, 2016

In meals of yore, one would often follow entrees with cheeses that aimed to spark the appetite for sweet desserts ... or even replace them as the savory finales. Boy, have times changed. Nowadays, diners are just as likely to find the fromage at the beginning of their menus as at the end. And that has led me to wonder: What in the name of a fragrant, room-temperature ...

What’s the most underappreciated herb?

These ingredients aren’t commonly found on menus. Which one deserves more love?

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