Submitted By Simon Hardy Butler, January 26, 2017
In this brave new world that has such foodies in it, the notion that consuming raw meat, poultry, eggs or shellfish can be hazardous to one’s health has permeated the restaurant landscape—so much so that eateries offering these delicacies are required to carry this reminder on their menus like a banner held aloft by a reluctant warrior in some ancient, fire-resistant era. Yet many spots continue to offer uncooked specialties, and with good reason: Made right, they’re delicious. Around the world, raw meat has an importance that other dishes don’t always reach. Take kitfo in Ethiopia, for instance. Or kibbeh in Lebanon. Or sushi and basashi in Japan. Or carpaccio in Italy. Or even steak tartare here in America. The taste for this kind of edible is universal.
So why haven’t we seen any eatery in New York—the culinary capital of the USA—solely feature such raw meats like we’ve seen places focus on other munchies?
This is a tricky, intriguing question. It’s not like Gothamites aren’t ready for carne desnuda; it’s been around in various forms for so long that it’s considered a staple of myriad menus, from steakhouses to brasseries. Yet for all the gimmicks that this city has seen its gastrofessionals dole out, there’s never, in recent memory at least, been one that has specialized in all kinds of raw meat. OK, perhaps raw pork is a trichinosis-likely deal breaker—that I’ll give ya. What about beef, though? Lamb? Bison? Goat?
There’s no end to the possibilities, or the kinds of dishes imaginable. A raw-meat restaurant highlighting different delicacies from around the world? Sounds like a winner to me. And one that adventurous New Yorkers would embrace.
Logistics are, quite possibly, an issue. The ingredients must be the freshest possible and cannot wait to be served. They must be the right temperature and not come to diners frozen. They can’t be gray at the edges or the slightest bit off—ever. Of course, that goes without saying. This is a high-profile risk, though. All eyes would be watching this spot because of the novelty.
Would it have legs? Maybe ground-chuck ice cream doesn’t sound appetizing, yet there are alternative recipes at hand that the chef(s) of this new venture could tackle. And be successful with, no doubt.
In an era where it’s hard to find something unique and exciting in the culinary universe, here’s an option that could provide just that boost. Whaddaya say, Big Applers? Is there a brave soul out there who’d want to start such an establishment?
We over here at Critical Mousse would be first in line to voice its support.