Restaurant Review: Old Homestead Steakhouse

/ November 21, 2017

Giving a restaurant you want to like a review that's just not as positive as you'd hoped is one of the hardest things in the universe to do ... at least, from a culinary writing perspective....

Restaurant Review: Gotham Bar and Grill

/ October 21, 2017

Critical Mousse is mostly about little-known, underappreciated New York restaurants that don't get the recognition they deserve....

Restaurant Review: Payag

/ August 14, 2017

I often worry that Manhattanites don't venture outside their borough enough when seeking out a nice dinner. I'll tell you one thing, though: If they did, they'd find a lot of wonderful eateries that they didn't knew existed on their doorstep....

Restaurant Review: Nippori

/ July 22, 2017

Not so long ago, Japanese izakaya—a style of restaurant featuring a variety of tidbits that are made to compliment sake, shochu, beer and other booze—were a rare sight on New York City streets....

Restaurant Review: Talia's Steakhouse

/ June 25, 2017

Kosher steakhouses aren't exactly a dime a dozen in New York City. But I wish they were. We need more of them, as they can be quite interesting from a culinary standpoint....

Restaurant Review: Milon

/ June 7, 2017

New York City is a town where many quality Indian restaurants may be found—and there’s certainly no shortage of them along East 6th Street off First Avenue in Downtown Manhattan … an area that has for many years been known for its subcontinental offerings....

Restaurant Review: Petite Abeille

/ May 10, 2017

No one should think that Belgian cuisine consists solely of mussels and chocolate. At Petite Abeille's location on 17th Street in Manhattan, there's a lot more to the menu than that....

Restaurant Review: Koronet Pizza

/ April 28, 2017

In the food world, New York City is known for having really great pizza....

Restaurant Review: Rolf's

/ April 22, 2017

New York culinary institutions don't have to be great restaurants. But they do have to offer something that you can't get anywhere else....

Restaurant Review: Manolo Tapas

/ April 1, 2017

Never has the tavern been accused of being a dying breed, yet in some areas this type of eatery is rare ... and examples of it are cherished, perhaps, more fervently than a horde of treasure is coveted by a dragon....

Restaurant Review: Agave

/ March 24, 2017

Beautiful places don't always offer beautiful food, though they sometimes do just enough to warrant further interest....

Restaurant Review: Krave It Sandwich Shop & Eatery

/ March 4, 2017

It's no secret that New York City is well-known for its pizza (and bagels, but that's a different story)....

Restaurant Review: Wu's Wonton King

/ February 24, 2017

No one "discovers" restaurants. Someone's always been to a place before you....

Restaurant Review: PokeWave

/ February 11, 2017

Poke, the classic Hawaiian dish featuring cubed sushi-grade raw fish with mix-ins such as seaweed and fish roe, is having quite a moment right now....

Restaurant Review: Saggio

/ February 4, 2017

How many chances do you usually give a restaurant to impress you? Is it one? Five? One thousand, six hundred and forty-three?...

Restaurant Review: V & T Pizzeria & Restaurant

/ January 29, 2017

Think about how long ago 1945 was for a second. It was the last year of World War II. The Dodgers were still running the bases in Brooklyn. ...

Restaurant Review: Las Tapas

/ January 21, 2017

Every neighborhood needs a reliable tapas spot....

Restaurant Review: Kitaro Sushi

/ January 9, 2017

New Yorkers are a curious crew. Some of the best restaurants in the world stand on our shores, and we still often find fault with them. Yet when it comes to our local, everyday eateries, we frequently treat them as we would a beloved teddy bear, caressing them as we whisper in their ears how sad we'...

Restaurant Review: Angry Burger

/ January 4, 2017

Anthropomorphizing inanimate objects is often a sign of pretentiousness, yet there’s nothing affected about Washington Heights gastropub Angry Burger, despite its bizarre name—which may cause one to envision some kind of cartoonish all-beef patty shooting steam out of a pair of ground-chuck ears...

Restaurant Review: Szechuan Gourmet

/ November 7, 2016

Remember the 1984 film adaptation of Frank Herbert’s classic science-fiction novel Dune? Where everyone seemed to be waxing poetic, ad infinitum, about the “spice”? I totally know what they were talking about. No, I haven’t folded space or anything like that. Actually, my enthusiasm is far m...

Restaurant Review: Old Tbilisi Garden

/ November 7, 2016

The dapper figure stands receptively at Old Tbilisi Garden’s entrance, its fluffy black headdress as unusual to see on this part of Bleecker Street as a well-fed student without a cell phone. But this humanoid isn’t alive—it’s a mannequin, clad in spirited yet debonair attire one must assume...

Restaurant Review: Luck Thai

/ November 7, 2016

Never underestimate a local restaurant. That’s a good mantra to follow, especially when it comes to eateries such as Luck Thai, a sparsely decorated, low-priced establishment on a funky corner of Fifth Avenue in Park Slope that may reverse any conceivably preconceptions you have of it. Squarish in...

Restaurant Review: Dinah Restaurant

/ November 7, 2016

Let the mountains proclaim the news: Hookah bars can offer tasty food, too. All right, so this isn’t really news. But it’s a maxim that is further proven by the offerings at Dinah Restaurant, an informal, high-ceilinged Downtown eatery on a hopping stretch of East-Village-y Second Avenue that te...

Restaurant Review: Mamajuana Cafe

/ November 4, 2016

If you’ve ever wondered how Dyckman Street suddenly turned into Amsterdam Avenue 2.0, you can look no further than the Inwwood outpost of sassy, savory minichain Mamajuana Cafe. The raucous, upscale eatery, located on the cusp of the boulevard’s Restaurant Row, may make you wonder why you ever w...

Restaurant Review: Bistro Ten 18

/ November 4, 2016

Dining at Bistro Ten 18 is like visiting a friendly neighbor to borrow a cup of sugar: It’s a pleasant experience, but just not as fulfilling as seeing a friend. Situated on the corner of 110th Street and Amsterdam Avenue, the restaurant offers a local charm that in the all-too-recent past was a r...

Restaurant Review: Almayass

/ November 4, 2016

Sidestreets are made for upscale restaurants. They’re generally quiet, innocuous, designed to avoid the hoi polloi’s collective eye as much as cater to the urbane high rollers so often coveted by the would-be eatery jet set. So a less-well-traveled thoroughfare may be a desirable commodity for t...

Archived Reviews

What’s the most underappreciated herb?

These ingredients aren’t commonly found on menus. Which one deserves more love?

You have already submitted a poll response.

Know a restaurant or issue we should write about?

Give us the scoop!

Contact Us