Submitted By Simon Hardy Butler, June 16, 2017

Eons ago, my mother, who grew up in Los Angeles, introduced my father, a denizen of New York City, to the avocado. It was soft. It was luscious. It was fatty.

He’d never had anything like it.

It looks like we’re back to those days in 2017 for some reason. Avocado toast is popping up on menus all over America. Grilled avocado is a thing. Who knows … maybe bathing in an avocado mush will be a trend as well.

My question is: Aren’t we just taking another look at an ingredient that never really went away? I mean, it’s not as if we’ve suddenly discovered that smashed avocado on a farinaceous piece of carbohydrates tastes good. We’ve already done that many times over with guacamole, dip. What’s the new thing here?

Don’t get me wrong–I dig avocados; I really do. I’m just confused about the current infatuation with it. Recently, at a fine restaurant in Manhattan, I was served a hunk of it as the waiter pronounced these words of introduction: “avocado heaven.” I’m quite sure heaven isn’t anything like avocados, and as delicious as these fruits are, they aren’t what I think of when I imagine the afterlife. I’m hinting more at a continuous shuffling of truffles, lobster, and foie gras, you know what I mean? Not avocado.

I’m not of the opinion that this unctuous foodstuff will go the way of the kiwi in eateries of the future; on the other hand, I’m not convinced it’s going to attain the salubrious “cachet” of kale, either. To me, the avocado will always stand in the position of something tasty in of itself … but not an item that has any transcendent properties on its own. Sure, it’s a lot yummier than celery. It’s much sexier than the turnip. Yet it’s still an avocado. And unless it’s transformed into a wondrous, creative dish, I’m not going to get beside myself in excitement.

So sayeth the avocado grump. I won’t win any friends in the industry with these comments, that’s for sure.

C’est la vie.

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